Get Your Watch Repaired: aBlogtoWatch & Govberg Watch Repair
Unlike the many curated tours of watch factories I am subject to, my guide at Dubois-Depraz wasn't a PR guide. He probably just spoke English a bit better than the other people there. The manufacture is operated by two of the three Dubois brothers, and it has been in the family since its inception in 1901. The component maker currently is comprised of three locations, and I got to visit the most important facility - the assembly plant.
The bi-compax dial layout for the chronograph is fitting, and inside the watch is the Calibre 36 automatic. I believe this is actually a Zenith El Primero high-beat automatic. This is one of the most sought after Tag movements, and you can see it through the sapphire display back. The automatic movement is COSC Chronometer certified. Don't miss the date window covertly placed between 4 and 5 o'clock. Tag Heuer watches like this aren't made for mass consumption - like many of the heritage collection pieces, this will be part of a limited edition of just 1911 pieces.
When my Bathys Benthic Ti arrived over a week ago, the first thing I did was pull out my recently acquired 1962 Omega Seamaster. I love my Omega. it has a definite 60's vibe which sits well with me, thank you very much. It reeks of three martini lunches and steno pools.
Like most Richard Mille watches this one will come in titanium, red gold, or white gold. Richard Mille likes to mostly show their watches in industrial looking titanium to present themselves in the most "functional" light possible. But the reality of course is that their pieces are high-end items with customers who like their products in gold. What is interesting however is that even on the titanium model, the crown and function selector pusher are in 18k red gold.
I don't know all the details yet, but I will tell you what I know. Size is at least 45mm wide, and as you can see the watch is quite thick. Ball is offering the 3000m diver with two dial styles - not sure how many colors. The one most people will prefer is likely the one seen here with the black dial. It has a more simple face that is easy to read thanks to the raised hour markers and large hands. Ball being Ball, everything is done in tritium gas tubes (that glow naturally and don't need light to charge). The dial has several layers and makes for a good look with the case.
If I recall correctly, the dial is also black ceramic. What Bell & Ross did differently here is to use brushed metal for the hour indicators and hands. I have to say, it looks really cool. This is one of the best looking BR01 models to come out in a while and is a fashionable sport watch that I think most men would be happy to wear. The brushed metal on the dial against the glossy black ceramic proves to be a successful mix and I highly anticipate seeing this look elsewhere soon.
What is this thing? Only the latest and greatest machine that tells the time. Pardon the watch's unfinished stated. Though all the promise is there. This is a new step for Hautlence - who finally get their own movement. Interestingly enough if you compare the watch to their earlier models -the way of telling the time is 'thematically' the same. Meaning a retrograde minute hand (that is unique) as well as quasi-digital hour indicator. The HL2 is also the brand's first automatic movement, it also contains a power reserve indicator (not yet complete in the prototype), and a behaves a bit like a locomotive!
Hublot will be adding a new material to its "art of fusion" parts bin which they call "Magic Gold." Magic gold is a special 18k gold and ceramic alloy which offers the look and feel of 18k gold with the incredibly high scratch resistance of ceramic materials. Many people who currently own gold watches will likely be very excited about this.
The black dialed version is actually textured - though you need to see it in the right light. The blue dialed version is more flat and glossy. I have to say that as good as the AR on the slightly domed sapphire crystal was - these dials proved to be a pain to photograph. Which is odd as they are really clear to the eye. This likely has to do with the mixture of matte and shiny elements on the dial (Omega does like to hint at bling a bit). Speaking of the sapphire crystal - it is very evenly cut and offers no discernible distortion when viewed at from extreme angles. The date windows are further done nicely. They have matching colors to the black dial and raised silver numerals - a great detail point.
That latter function uses a pusher at 2pm to stop and reset the subsidiary seconds display for the time. It is used for more precise setting of the time and works similar to how a chronograph resets itself. While not super necessary it is a cool function that will help prove that playing with the watch will be more interesting. The functions on the dial are easy to read but also attractive. You'll notice that the dial texture and color are what I would call egg shell.
I like the 'aged lume' version; it's also available with plain white, pepsi bezel, etc.
The brand is Fonderie 47 (which I will explain more below) and the man who designed these cuff links for them is Roland Iten - a friend and very talented inventor who conceives things like the world’s most expensive belt buckles. Now he has designed what is likely the world’s most complicated and expensive cuff links. Check out my coverage and video of a Roland Iten belt buckle here.