That implies the importance and delicacy of the know-how they (could) share and, with the aforementioned concerns of these traditions not being carried on by anyone, and hence, disappearing partly or entirely, the three decided to pick someone they deemed worthy and transmit their expertise to him or her. The chosen pupil was Michel Boulanger, a French watchmaking teacher at the Diderot vocational college. The idea was to have Boulanger build a relatively simple, three-hand watch with a tourbillon escapement in his workshop to the south-west of Paris, and while doing so, each month pay a visit to Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Philippe Dufour, as well as to learn from other specialists at the Greubel Forsey manufacture.
Citizen watches will follow-up the very impressive Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100 watch (hands-on review here) from 2014 with this 2015 Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F900 watch that adds additional functionality and only marginally increases the case thickness. Each of the initial Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F900 watches will further be part of a limited edition and even offer some case durability upgrades. If you liked the Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100 and wanted just a bit more to push you over the edge in making a purchase, the Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F900 might be the piece that makes you pull the trigger on this great-looking GPS watch.
Frankly, for my money, a thermometer seems like a more useful readout than a barometer. That said, both are definitely superfluous gadgets, and one could argue that neither belong in a watch. For me, I argue that they do belong there. Perhaps they are not the most practical complications in the world, but I think something like this, which I'll label as "scientific whimsy" fits like a hand in a glove with our passion for precision micro-machines, and manages to bring some levity – along with a healthy dose of "gee whiz."
As far as model names are concerned, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the quintessential Rolex: while all other pieces in the Oyster collection contain the "Oyster Perpetual" phrase in their name (e.g. Oyster Perpetual Submariner or Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona), here, no extra phrases are added; and with that, you are looking at the most simple, straight-forward Rolex watch that is manufactured today.
I have to admit I was hoping the Heuer 01 would be more closely related to the still-on-hold in-house made and designed TAG Heuer caliber CH 80 – but we will have to wait for that into the future. It does feel a bit “marketing-ish” to make a new movement name out of what is essentially an 1887 in new clothing. I get it, but it doesn’t feel as satisfying as it should, However, the result is an impressive and highly wearable concept that offers so much of what people like about skeletonized versions of the Hublot Big Bang at a fraction of the price. For that reason, I think the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01 will sell very well.
We will discover the making of one specific component from start to finish a bit later on but, for now – to give a tangible example to all that's been said – we are adding two technical drawings. What you see further above is the wheel used in the keyless works of the crown, playing a vital role in winding and setting the movement. This component, just like every other in the movement, has been designed – literally drawn on paper and then in CAD software – from scratch. On the image directly above is the design of a tool that was created and manufactured in the workshop just to cut the profile of the teeth of some of the wheels in the movement.
The case back once again contains a sapphire crystal, showing off the in-house movement and the racing-car-alloy-inspired winding rotor proudly carrying the "Sixty-eight hours power reserve" designation. IWC being among the best when it comes to creating beautifully crafted – and strikingly cool looking – rotors to adorn its movements, this piece with the added text looks a bit "unusual" compared to the much more impressive rotors we have grown used to seeing on the Portuguese Annual Calendar or other limited editions such as this perpetual dedicated Saint-Exupéry's The Little Prince.
Now, this isn't the only time a brand has redesigned a movement to put a striking mechanism on the dial-side (A. Lange & Söhne have displayed the hammers in the Zeitwerk model, and check out this Ulysse Nardin for an example of a music box watch that positions the sounding mechanism in a similar way to amplify its output), but it is new in the sense that all the parts and their layout have been created especially for this piece. And it must be said, they have been created superbly, with a level of exposure I am not sure I have ever seen on the dial-side of a minute repeater. If someone asked me to explain what I love about watchmaking with a single part, I reckon I could win them over by handing them one of those beautifully bevelled hammers that you can see sitting in tandem at 12 o'clock. I mean, it's totally irrational to actually feel something when you look at a tiny piece of hand-shaped metal, especially when removed from its functional context, but hey, I just don't care, because it feels really, really good.
Although the design is bold and may split opinion, there is plenty I like about this aesthetic. When viewed through a sapphire crystal of 18,000 Vickers hardness and double-coated with anti-reflective treatment, the display comes to life. The hands, although modern in design, are hand-polished and flame blued in the traditional method. The same is true of the hour markers, which take the form of polished orbs of blued steel, apparently floating in an anthracite rack. This watch is more than a science experiment – it is a true fusion of old and new. Radical in style, but sympathetic in method, the De Bethune DBS Tourbillon is a fine addition to a range already bursting with intrigue.
While the prominence of 18k rose/red/pink gold is not surprising, I am curious as to why yellow gold seemed to fall out of favor with so many brands. It isn't that you can't get 18k yellow gold watches (Rolex has a few nice ones), but they are much less common compared to alloys like rose gold. Anyhow, the limited edition MB&F LM101 Frost comes in either 18k red gold or yellow gold.
The Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept forces us to ask questions about the future of haute horlogerie. The integration of new, non-mechanical technologies into luxury watches moves the goalposts somewhat. Coinciding with the dawn of the smart watch age are hybrid luxury watches such as the Bulgari Diagono Magnesium Concept and the Breitling B55 Connected, a compromise that might perpetuate high-end horology's relevance in an increasingly interactive world, or are they a desperate prelude to an approaching death knell? Wearing the watch on the wrist, one might argue, "this is cool but now I have to wear the same watch all the time. Would this technology be better used in a Bulgari bracelet instead?"
Speaking of manual labor, I had to ask Halvorson if the engravers ran into problems while decorating the cases and bracelets of these Rolex watches. Modern Rolex timepieces use a very hard form of steel which is an alloy called 904L. In addition to being very corrosion resistant 904L steel is very difficult to machine. Engravers typically like working with softer metals such as gold, silver, or brass. While I didn't have a chance to discuss it with the engravers, Blaine did respond that the engravers offered a lot of complaints about the difficulty of engraving each watch.
So, then, I was lucky to be able to have my milestone timepieces, such as when we received the first Halliburton briefcase with the very first 12 Bell & Ross prototypes.
I really like the lighter, almost white, tone of the movement structure that makes up much of the "dial," as it combines nicely with the warmer tone of the titanium case and allows the small arrow which indicates the mainspring tension to leap off the dial.
Necessary Data >Brand: HYT >Model: H4 (H4 Gotham as tested) >Price: ,000 USD >Size: 51mm >Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes >Friend we'd recommend it to first: Courageous types who like their watches bold, futuristic, and mechanically fascinating. It might not be an ideal daily wear, but wearing it can be ideal. >Best characteristic of watch: Incredibly cool fusion of light carbon case material and amazing movement with the liquid hour indicator system. A winning watch for those who appreciate the genre. >Worst characteristic of watch: Decision to create new "H4" collection for this product might confuse collectors. Case might be too large for some. Decision to use faux-alligator pattern on otherwise excellent strap is odd.
It isn't totally uncommon for watch design to be inspired in part by music, but I think it is a topic that at least some brands should explore more - especially outside the context of very expensive watches such as minute repeaters that actually chime. Musical instruments are a lot like timepieces in that they are a niche breed of beautiful tools which inspire a lot of passion. I don't see why more watches shouldn't be inspired or connected to the world of music or musical instruments. Maybe that is a crazy idea, but given Raymond Weil's love of the subject as a brand, it might be something fruitful for them to explore a bit more.
The dial is a mix of opaline black with cream sub dials and accents. There is also a subtle red cross emanating from the center of the dial and a date display at 4:30. Legibility of the time display is generally good, but in some lighting, the polished main time hands can disappear against the black backdrop of the dial, despite their inclusion of a luminous segment on each hand. Being polished, all one would need to do is slightly rotate their wrist to catch some available light and reveal the hands.
Today, April 24th, is when the Apple Watch officially launches for sale, even though many people will not receive their watches for weeks, if not months. Buildup to the Apple Watch has been totally unprecedented, as it has proven both a polarizing product, as well as one that has brought distinct demographics together in ways that I've never seen before. When else has a product been discussed so heavily by the tech industry, fashion industry, celebrity news industry, and watch industry all at the same time? Apple's incredible investment in both research and development as well as marketing has created a force to be reckoned with in a segment that is still incredibly new. Smartwatches will continue to catch on, in my opinion, and products like the Apple Watch will act as major evolutionary steps in what is a future of everyone wearing - as opposed to carrying - communication and information technology.
The typical cage design of Roger Dubuis tourbillons has always been attractive, in my opinion, and helps add to the refined look of these spinning regulation systems. The tourbillons hint at being avant-garde in design but are still very classic and traditional compared to the other elements in most of today's Roger Dubuis watches. Speaking of which, it is interesting to consider that the Roger Dubuis watch brand is 20 years old in 2015, having been founded in 1995. The tourbillons rotate fully once each 60 seconds and can double as a seconds indicator, given the small hand in the case. The balance wheels within them operate at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 bph). The RD505SQ movements have a power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound.
In essence, the MMT "Horological Smartwatch" by Frédérique Constant, Alpina and Mondaine has arrived and it promises to serve as a bridge between high-tech smart watches and traditional timepieces. We are looking forward to testing out how the claimed services of the watch and the apps function in real life, but, until then, we can say that the MMT seems to have the potential to strike the right balance between traditional watch design elements and modern fitness tracking smart watch functionalities. frederique-constant.com
Swatch Introduces A Smartwatch: Touch Zero One (For Volleyball)
22 Commentsby David Bredan
Swatch Introduces A Smartwatch: Touch Zero One (For Volleyball)
Hugh Taylor: If I were to have a limited knowledge of watch mechanics (speaking hypothetically, of course!), would you be able to quickly skim over the basics for me first?
The bezel has the classic Roger Dubuis "notch" design, which really marries well with this watch. In some cases the notched bezel can be a somewhat superfluous distraction, but the cleanliness and symmetry of this dial make it a welcome addition. The watch features roughly the same closed case back design as the first, with the enamelled blue shield and three crowns logo, although no official pictures of this have been made available at this time. Hiding behind the case back, which guarantees water resistance to 50 metres, is an RD821 automatic calibre, boasting a 48-hour power reserve and the Poinçon de Genève (the Geneva Seal). It is humbling when a brand that has such a high quality movement keeps it hidden, but it is a decision some may struggle to understand when it is very much a joy to look at. On the subject of water resistance, it is unlikely anyone who has bought this watch will be taking it down to the depth it can reputedly withstand, but if they did want to test it out, they would notice there is no lume on the stubby hands. I actually don't mind the short hands (designed to miss the swords of the knights), but they might not please everyone.
Mechanical movement lovers with a place in their heart for affordable automatic watches that are made in Japan are likely going to have the same positive feelings I do for the new-for-2015 Citizen Signature Grand Classic 9184 that contains a brand new in-house made movement. Priced at just over ,000, this new Citizen-made movement will power this dressy yet legible timepiece with enough character to keep it from being boring and enough distinctness to make it different.