This is the EHF Mk Zero, here for review from the new Swiss company, EHF Horlogere. Founded in 2011, EHF is five people who are trying to bring hand craftsmanship to affordable watches. I first heard about them when they posted a rather audacious tutorial on their blog of "how to assemble a 'Swiss Made' pilot watch on the cheap." (well worth a read, by the way.) I contacted them and they kindly sent us a watch for review and have also agreed to give it away to a lucky reader in a contest this fall. So read on, and perhaps you'll be the person who ends up enjoying this very piece.
Limited edition of 700 pieces
Hong Kong is really one of the major centers of the watch world, for a number of important reasons. China is the largest manufacturer of watches and watch components. Most people know that many Swiss brands rely on Chinese suppliers for everything from cases and straps to boxes and presentation displays. Hong Kong is also one of the world's most active watch buying centers. The Hong Kong Watch & Clock fair focuses on both foreign, domestic Chinese brands, as well as all the stuff which goes into making watches. It is huge and exciting, and it will be exciting to see it.
To notify you that your phone has a new message or event, the seconds hand from the time moves over to one of the indicators on the inner flange ring of the dial. It stays there until you notice it, and that doesn't affect the time keeping. It is a simple and useful system that is likely combined with a slight vibration or beeping from the watch. It is an interesting way of having a watch live nicely with your phone. Watch brands today realize that in order to get many people to wear their products, watches either need to be more stylish than phones and/or somehow be used with phones. This is a step in that direction.
The piece is the Hamilton Khaki Navy Pioneer Limited Edition, and you can consider it a convertible watch. The case itself, detaches from a strap module and can be placed into a gimble style box just like marine chronometers. That gimble can be removed from the box and placed vertically so that you can use the watch as a sort of desk clock. You can lock the gimble in place to prevent the watch from moving around. Cool right? I love these convertible style pieces.
Power reserve 42 hours
The black-on-black treatment makes this otherwise utilitarian watch feel a bit more like something you want to wear with a black leather jacket. The pilot style strap is cool looking. It is thick and uses two black rivets near the case for that aviator watch feel. A nice detail is the buckle which uses two prongs and a nice roller to make putting it on and taking it off very smooth. Enough little details like that not only help distinguish this watch, but also help it feel like better value for the money. Overall, this handsome watch with its Swiss movement, sapphire crystal and tritium gas tube lighting feels like a good buy for the retail price of 5.
Dial & Hands:
Matt Black dial
Indexes with luminescent color
Hour, minute, stop second hand with luminescent color
Tech specs from Romain Jerome:
It does remind you of Roger Dubuis’ skeleton tourbillions – and that is OK. Hublot makes a skeletonized tourbillon version of the Classic Fusion in a good-size case that feels modern and classic, while also feeling very high-end and tasteful. Very thin to boot.
Miles or MPH to Kilometers or KPH conversions:
- The goal: Calculate a distance or speed in Kilometers where the distance or speed is known in Miles.
- A Kilometer is roughly 0.621 of a mile.
- Set the outer ring's "6.21" over the inner ring index ("1").
- Find "2" (for 200) on the outer ring.
- The inner ring shows "3.22" which is 322 kilometers.
Some specifications are in order. The movement is the Orient 40P51, beating at 21,600vph and a power reserve of about 42 hours. Hackable, handwinding, quick-set date, independent GMT hand. The case is stainless steel, 40.2mm by 12.3mm thick, with 20mm lugs and a 5.85mm crown. Bracelet is 3.3mm thick, butterfly deployant, solid throughout and non-tapering. Total weight is 135g with all links.
Both watches have the same dial and both have the same depth rating of 500 meters - pretty cool with the sapphire crystal caseback. For water tightness, the chronograph pushers are screw down. It is interesting how Magrette released two chronograph models right at the same time - each with enough differences to be separate models, but also also similar enough to be in the same product family. They certainly did a good job at making the Moana Pacific version feel more like a dive watch and the Regattare version look more racing inspired.
On the dial are the signature Shelby double racing stripes and of course the cobra. It just isn't Shelby without the cobra figurine. While I typically don't like shared dial branding, I think the David Yurman and Shelby names co-exist in a reasonable way on the dial. As an American car lover, it is pretty sweet. Cooler still is the strap. Now that is a clever piece of design. David Yurman continued the look of the cobra snake body into the rubber strap. How sweet is that? I really like this design element a lot actually - even though on paper it could sound cheesy.
Being BR 01 watches, each of these comes in a 46mm wide square steel case with a PVD black coating. The crystals are sapphire and they come with both a black rubber and canvas strap. Inside the watches are modified Swiss ETA 2892 automatic movements. Though it would seem to make sense that the BR 01 Altimeter has an ETA 2896 given that it has a big date complication. Regardless, the series number indicates it as being in the BR 01-92 collection. It doesn't really matter I guess as the movements are inherently very similar. Each of the BR 01 Horizon, Altimeter, and Turn Coordinator watches are limited to 999 pieces and should be a serious consideration if you are a fan of the BR 01 watch range.
Accompanying the watch is a nice kit with the extra straps and changing tool. It all comes in a Pelikan-style waterproof case. The case is cool, but I still don't understand why a diving watch needs to come in a water resistant case. Wouldn't those be best for watches you don't really want to get wet? The Anchar is actually a limited edition - with this piece being produced in a batch of 1000 pieces. Price via Vostok Europe's website for this version of the Anchar watch is 419 Euros (about 5 US dollars)
One final thing I would like to say about the watch is its amazing presentation, first, the stunningly beautiful engraving on the back of the watch, the watch has a steel back with a bead blasted finish, and has a highly detailed engraving of the US Presidential Seal on it, USAgency is the only company licensed to engrave this on their watches, and it looks awesome.
From marketing guy to product guy, Mirza's 1:Face watch brand is his testing ground to see how well his own ideas translate into a success for selling a product himself versus for others. His work is clever, and what you'll notice is that in most of the media around the 1:Face product, there is extremely little discussion of the watch itself.